To Perm Or Not To Perm

With 80s styles having a revival, big hair is back with popular culture inspiring styles such as perms, shaggy layers and (dare we say) the mullet.

A perm is an easy-to-manage style if clients want volume and body – but there are a few things to consider before deciding that it’s the right service for them.

Curl commitment

The first thing you need to discuss with your client is whether they know what exactly a perm is. It’s surprising how many people aren't aware that perm stands for ‘permanent’. The number of times I’ve been asked (post perm) ‘and how long with this last for?’ A perm is for life, not just for Christmas! A permanent wave will have to be cut out over time, so make sure your client is aware of the commitment required before you fix those rollers in.

Curl compatibility

The next check on your list is to see whether a client’s hair will be suitable for a perm. The general rule of thumb is that if the hair is too fine, then it will end up frizzy and fly-away. If the hair is too thick, then the curl may not take to the hair as well and will weigh down any curl that does form.

The best practice is to do a strand test so you can get a true result to show your client. If the hair’s integrity is still intact, then you’re good to go! If in doubt, it’s best to steer clear.

Curl and colour don’t always mix

Even though the 80s may have thought differently, perming hair that has been bleached is not advised. The chemical overload puts too much strain on the hair and can cause too much damage to the cuticle. So, if a client had already had a full head of highlights in their hair history, then step away from the perm solution.

Normal perm solutions can also be rather harsh on coloured hair, but there are alternatives which are specifically made for sensitive and coloured hair, which opens your client’s options when contemplating a curly look.

Curl consultation

It might be worth asking your client what kind of curl they’re after. What they might be expecting is a look that a curling wand has crafted, but a perm curl won’t give them that same look. If this is the case, perhaps you can recommend a styling tool to use instead.

Curl aftercare

‘I’d love to just wash my hair and leave it.’ We all know a perm isn’t that simple - it still requires products and styling. Curl creams and mousses are essential products to prevent frizzing and to keep curl intact.

A diffuser is also a handy tool to have at their disposal as this gentle drying technique helps keep curl patterns intact and provides body with even air distribution. If your clients prefer the blow-dried look with a smooth finish, then vented round brushes are great for accentuating a perm’s body and bounce.

Perms can also dry the hair out, so conditioning is key to prevent breakage and to keep hair looking healthy and shiny.

With this perming checklist, we can help you deliver the best service for your client before they commit to the curl.